There is some excellent diving in the south of Thailand, particularly Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang (Red Rock and Purple Rock) which you really shouldn't miss. You can do these dives with dive operators in Phuket, Koh Lanta or elsewhere - but only on liveaboards as the journey is so long. For a day trip or two, and just a three hour journey, stay in Koh Ngai (pronounced, and often spelt, Koh Hai).

Koh Ngai is a small island, orginally home to just 10 Thai families. Most of these have sold their land to the tourist operators, but Koh Hai Villa is still owned by the original family. Ko Ngai has few facilities and no currency exchange, although you can get money out on your credit card if you're willing to pay an exorbitant commission rate. It has three "resorts" (groups of bungalows with restaurant and beach front). A place to dive and relax, not for those wanting bars and nightlife.

Getting There

From Bangkok fly to Trang. A minibus at Trang airport will take you to whichever hotel in Trang you choose (Ko Teng Hotel is clean and cheap) - or to the bus station if you prefer. Buy a ticket inside the airport.

From Trang you can either use a travel agency and take tourist buses and boats - or use the local buses, ferries and longtail boats. We recommend the latter - cheaper and generally better quality transport. Take a bus to Pak Meng. From there take a ferry or longtail to Koh Ngai.

You can also reach Koh Ngai from other islands. The Koh Lanta ferry calls in at the Koh Hai Resort. From Koh Muk it's easy to get someone to take you by Longtail to whichever resort you choose. (Koh Muk has two areas in which to stay - Koh Muk resort and Hat Farang on the opposite side of the island. Hat Farang is by far the better beach, and boasts a choice of three sets of bungalows: Farang's Beach up the hill, Sawatdii to the left of the beach (with your back to the sea) and Charlie Beach Resort - tel: (01) 7230495 - to the right. Sawatdii is the most luxurious, best cook is at Farang's Beach, very friendly at Charlie Beach Resort. No money changing facilities at all on Koh Muk.)

Koh Ngai Accommodation

Koh Hai Resort

The diving centre is attached to the Koh Hai Resort. This "resort" offers three sorts of accommodation: wooden huts, on-suite bungalows with fan and on-suite bungalows with air conditioning.

Fantasea Resort

A rather difficult, rocky, walk away from Koh Hai Resort: look for the restaurant shaped like a battleship. (You can also take a free boat ride inbetween the two resorts.) The most expensive accommodation option, with prices ranging from around 2000 Baht per 2 person bungalow to around 2800 Baht. Owned by the same people as run the Koh Hai Resort.

Koh Hai Villa

Friendly staff and the cheapest option: around 600 Baht for a two person wooden hut and 1500 Baht for a bungalow. A very short walk from Fantasea Resort, and they also provide free boat rides to Koh Hai Resort. Offer speed boat pickup to and from Pak Meng (200 Baht). Ignore the comments about the food in the Lonely Planet guide; the squid, for example, was exquisite. Go for the Thai dishes.

Libong Beach Resort is a small resort on the largest island in Trang. No diving facilities on the island, but if you inform them in advance they can arrange diving using equipment from the mainland. Contact libongbeach@hotmail.com

Koh Lanta is a large island with an enormous amount of Accommodation. It has red roads, long beaches and thick forests. The capital, Saladin, is home to several dive operators (at least three German run and one Australian run). We stayed in Lanta Garden Home and thoroughly recommend it. Friendly atmosphere and good cooking. For other options see your guidebook or trust to your own instinct about a place.

Few shops but some fantastic batiques for sale, painted in front of you.

If you're looking for nightlife and activities, Krabi, and it's nearbye beaches and islands, are for you. Lots of guesthouses and cheap hotels, loads of bars, part of the backpackers route. Tons of things to do, like sea kayacking in mangrove swamps and caves, or climbing. For climbing take a boat to Railey or Phra Nang (you can walk between these two beaches and stay in bungalows here). There are two climbing outfits on the peninsula, where you can hire kit, guides or take lessons. There are many diving operators in Ao Nang (a bus ride from Krabi) and a couple on the Railey peninsula. Most also have booking offices in Krabi itself.

Lots of shops in Krabi, but generally the same things are cheaper in Bangkok. For clothes try the market; cheap but fairly well made.

Getting There

From Bangkok you can fly to Krabi. From Koh Ngai or Koh Muk take a boat to Pak Meng, from there catch a bus to Trang and from Trang bus station catch a bus to Krabi.

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